Day 12: Rioseco to Laredo, 18 km

Our evening in Rioseco was quiet as it was a small town and no restaurant. We missed the bus to the next town for what promised to be a good almuerzo meal ( late lunch time) and we can’t stay up to eat after 8. So we went together with Heidi, the new South Korean woman we met, to buy food at the supermarket and make a meal together. We had fun sitting outside the hostel sharing bread, cheese, olives, chocolate and whatever else we were carrying with us. We heard a pretty birdsong which I recognized as the European robin, so I played the robin’s song from my Merlin app, and soon there were robins answering from every quarter. It was truly impressive how much response we got. Later I heard an owl sound and the app identified it as a Tawny Owl. The stars, the moon and the quiet tiny town were a nice moment.

In the morning we got up and did not feel like waiting for the official breakfast. We had plenty of food and water and so we headed out on the trail. Our path was mostly forest and mountain with no towns for quite some time. After about 10 km, and crossing the coastal highway, we finally came to the town of Liendo, where we had to ask for a bar, because we could not find anything. A man took us by bicycle to find the bar and we were able to get cafe con leche and toast with butter and jam. It was nice to be in a chair and have some coffee. I had to help some Finnish hikers figure out to order coffee as the espresso is too strong for them.

Clouds start to appear as we leave our gentle valley.
A sheep shows his good taste for English ivy
The camino leads right through the side and back yard of this house and starts up the mountain.

Somehow, it didn’t seem like true Camino until we hit a real rocky upward path onto the mountain. Alice has coined a phrase that it is now time to ”rock and roll” when he climb steeply on an uneven rocky surface. As we climbed we started to get the views of the mountains and the sea, and we joke that’s why we climb the mountain.

We stopped at the top for an orange and fruit bar and to rest. It was stunning. And we saw the mountain that we had to take a whole day to walk around.

We leave the lowlands behind.
…. and say hello to dramatic views of the coast

After descending the rocky path into Laredo, we are reminded that the town has a medieval festival today. We will enjoy the sights and have a real meal! After a much needed nap and the necessary work of washing clothes, we happened to spot Heidi because of where her clothes were drying, and we went out together to see the medieval festival. It was a great day and the good weather persists. However, it’s cooling down and looks to be entering a rainy season.

Medieval revelers dance through the streets.
These young men showed some impressive flagwork.
People enjoy showing off their costumes.
Alice holds an owl at the Medieval Festival
Heidi is an internist from Seoul, South Korea, doing her first Camino.

4 thoughts on “Day 12: Rioseco to Laredo, 18 km”

    1. Thanks, Greg. Some of the best moments are unplanned. We knew nothing about the medieval festival before trying to make a reservation and finding things were fairly booked due to it.

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