The Virgin of Guadalupe Saint’s day

12/12/24

Finally we’ve come to the day we’ve been anticipated, the beloved Virgin of Guadaupe. Ernesto and I got out early to the 7 am mass. We knew that one of host families, the Jimenez, would be down there and that they would be looking forward to carrrying an image of the Virgin back to their house.

A family emerges with the Guadalupe statue to take back to their home.
Then the Jimenez’ emerged as the mass ended. The imager of the Virgin is bordered by an especially hand made ornamental cover with the traditional design elements found on all of their blouses and shirts. I’m sure that Estrella made that in her workshop

The brass band struck up music, the church bells rang and firecrackers were set off to mark the end of mass. And we all set off up the hill and then down a steep narrow path to their house for a breakfast offered to the whole sommunity.

The town was shrouded in clouds as we headed up the winding main street.
The family placed the statue in a corner that was prepared with many plants and flowers. Then all the other guests passed slowly and solemnly to the Virgin’s statue to place flowers and or a candle.

There was a period of 30 minutes for praying numerous rosaries and then some other solemn speeches in Mixe which I couldn’t understand. When the prayeres were over, strong and quick volunteers brought out tables and quickly set them up for breakfast. 200 or so people sat down and soon the food was brought out.

The CECAM brass band was on hand and sitting on a platform, playing well known tunes at dramatic moments in a choreographed way.

CECAM brass band was on hand

As we started to eat, a musical program began.

Carlos CGH is a Mixteca rap singer ( Mixtecos are another indigenous group in northern Oaxaca state). He mixed Spanish and Mixteca language as he rapped about the experiences of orginal peoples.
Carlos was joined by a Ailicec Jta, a family member who is also a well known singer. She sings in Mazateca, and sang both rock and cumbia songs in her native language.

It was time for speeches and drinking the ceremonia drink, tepache. Tepache is made from slightly fermented pineapple and atole. Tepache is received and all people drink together. Just prior to drinking, a small amount is dribbled on the ground to give honor to the ancestors.

Tepache.
The ceremony at the time of dinking tepache.

Ernesto and I were ready to take off and get some rest. Later we found a little comedor for lunch and rested until it was time for the rodeo.

At 3, we headed down the mountain towards the jaripeo grounds ( like fairgrounds for rodeo)

A big red truck pulled up carrying the bulls!

A big red truck carrying 11 bulls and all of the young men who work with and ride the bulls pulled up.
A brass band, this time mostly composed of girls, arrives from a nearby town. Brass bands are everywhere!

We watched the bull workers reacy the truck and the corral so that the bulls could be directed into the corral. The announcer did his best to fill the time with commentary and intermittently called on the band to play another tune. The stands filled up.

People from town gradually fill the stands.

Now the tone of the announcer intesified and some prominent officials were called to the ring. After looking important for a few minutes they left and it was time to start brining the bulls out.

And the bull is out with rider securely in place, barefoot, and holding on only to the rope around the bull’s midsection.
There are handlers, the younger boys in the troupe, whose job is to provoke the bull to look “ferocious”, and sometimes it is. The handler uses a blanket to draw the bull to them and then throws the blanket at the bull to distract the bull while he gets away.

Sometimes things get a little dicey…. Or worse.

The young man was not hurt, surprisingly.

It was along day, and we walked up the mountain back into town and to our hotel.

2 thoughts on “The Virgin of Guadalupe Saint’s day”

Comments are closed.