September 21, 2022.
Our promised light day turns difficult. We started our day in the old neighborhood of Sextao, which turned out to have the best bar food we‘ve had so far. Last night we went for dinner and had fantastic seafood pintxos and cider, and then again this morning for cafe con leche and croissants a la plancha, or croissonts sliced, grilled briefly, then with butter and marmalade. It was a great start to the day, and soon we were walking toward the famous Vizcaya Bridge, designed by the same Eiffel as the Eiffel tower.
The roads in Portaguelete were like a mess of tangled worms and with no yellow arrows to guide us we went the wrong way. An older gentleman called our attention to our error and took pleasure in getting us on the right way. We were moving out of town. Approaching a giant intersection of superhighways we rose on an extensive interchange of bike and pedestrian pathways, all with lanes for bikes and pedestrians. There we met Miriam who walked with us for several miles. The way was incredibly easy as it was part of a regional hiking and cycling recreational path, due to it‘s smooth surface with gentile grades. The recreational path continued all the way into Arenas on the coase of the Sea of Biscayne. At 14 km we thought our day was going to be short and sweet. We stopped at a little beach bar for a second breakfast of coffee and croissants. As I was waiting at the counter I could not believe my eyes —- Founders Beer on tap. The owner confirmed it and showed me other Founders specialities in bottles in the cooler.
Turning west, we folllowed a pretty boardwalk until it ended at a beautifulbeach. While walking we met two French women and a Czech family who were hiking with their 9-year old daughter. They were so charming
We came to the end of the boardwalk, and also to the end of our easy hiking. We dipped down under supehighways and into a tiny town of Oton. The sign said go right to the short beach route to Castro Urdiales, so we took it. but the short route was not a beach route, but rather seemed almost a suicide mission of walking along a national highway in the mountains with no shoulder. And the distance was much further than we anticipated. Finally we came to a tiny town of Mioño where I thought there appeared to be a shortcut off of the highway into town. Sure enough, there was a narrow side route along an old railroad that cut through a lighted tunnel and got us into Castro Urdiales. After 29 Km we arrived feeling dead tired. Adding insult to injury, there is no kitchen in Spain open until 8 pm. No one would serve us! We ate some cold pintxos and got some food at the Carrefour supermarket and ate in the park outside the churich. We need to learn to eat early afternoon because we can’t wait until 8 pm after walking all day.
We‘ve officially left the Basque region and are in Cantabria. The language, food and customs have changed.
Of course you found Founders … it’s owned by Mao out of Spain. When we were in Spain in 2019 we were not so lucky so we just ordered Mao.
I guess I didn‘t really believe I‘d see it given that every bar seems not to have changed in 50 years, but there it is!
You are certainly meeting some beautiful and interesting people.
Yes, Paul, it seems to select for interesting and motivated people.
Quite a day! Especially interesting are the people you meet and re-meet along your route. It is surprising that with as many people who walk this route that it is not better marked. No one wants to do a single extra km when walking so far each day.
Agree totally. I guess in hindsight, the official route is better marked ant this „alternative route“ along the coast is poorly marked and poorly advised.