September 18, 2022. Last evening was so welcome. We were beat and had a private room to sleep in, and sleep we did. We were fully refreshed when we awoke at 6:30 and were ready for the group breakfast at 7 am. Our table was a little less dynamic than usual as the French couple in the middle of the table could not interact with many others and so there was somewhat of a communication block between the two ends of the table. Nevertheless the toast, croissants, hot coffee and juicewere welcome, and by 7:30 we stepped into the streetlights and moonlight to start our day.
Also welcome today was a much more moderate topography. We started our day by following a long gurgling stream through pastoral agricultural lands. There were little towns every 4 – 5 km to get water, to rest or even stop at a bar for a second cup of coffee.
Having gotten used to a more gentle landscape as we approached Gernika, we were dealt a wild card with a revised route for the Camino. It seemed to take us out of the way and up and down exhausting hills to nowhere. But in the end we arrived at the last exurb of Gernika, Ajangiz, which was actually quite a cute little town, and having only 2 km to go, we treated ourselves to a beer and some leftover nuts. The last 2 km into Gernika were easy and we easily found our pension. The easier landscape allowed us more distance — 27 km over 9 hours. We enjoyed a dinner of pintxos and cider on the main square of Gernika, then a treat at the pastry shop. Afterwards we went to buy fruit and granola bars to have on hand tomorrow and saunter around the historic areas that describe the bombing of Gernika by the Nazis in 1937. Tomorrow we get close to Bilbao.
A detour? Tough enough in a car, but distressing on foot. I respect your adaptability and ongoing spirit of discovery.