September 15, 2022. Today we are diving deeper into traditional Basque language and culture as we get further from the big city of San Sebastián. Because of no rooms available further ahead in Deba, and also due to new blisters appearing on Alice’s feet, we elected for a short 10 km day to the beautiful seaside town of Zumaia.
Our pattern for eating is simplifying. A simple breakfast of bread and espresso at sunrise and then a simple lunch of pintxos and Basque cider or white wine at lunch. Grocery store supplied Serrano ham, cheese , bread and fresh fruit in our room at night. We need so little food and are not hungry. The big Basque meals are just too much food and why spend the money. Restaurant meals are just lost on us at this point. Stopping once an hour while hiking for fresh fruit fills in the gaps.
This morning we left at sunrise and followed a wonderful level walkway skirting the sea all the way from Zarautz to Getaria. At Getaria, the road heads up into the mountains, and the Camino breaks off from the road and heads into the headlands overlooking the striking cliffs crashing down into the sea. The rock layers called Flysch are oriented almost vertically here creating an upside down world effect. These layers are due to the collision of the Iberian tectonic plate into the European plate creating the Pyrenees 60 million years ago.
Not only the Pyrenees, but the town of Zumaia is so vertically oriented that one needs to take elevators to get around town. We walked up and out to the sea, first to St Peter’s cathedral, and then out to the Saint Thelmo Hermitage. From there we had time to burn so stopped into a fruit store and then a supermarket. The young woman in fruit store was …. you guessed it.. Nicaraguan. The young lady at the bar in the morning was … Guatemalan. We are in a strange place, but secretly accompanied by Central and South Americans.
At the supermarket we found a bountiful deli where we could order just enough for tonight’s hotel balcony dinner — Idaizabel cheese ( you could spend crazy $ for this downtown GR at the Downtown Market), and Serrano Ham. But ours was just local and modestly priced.
By now we’ve eliminated every ounce of unnecessary weight, and have perfected our approach to food. We’re ready to move inland and pick up the pace.
After enjoying a picnic dinner on the balcony, I headed out into the waterfront where many families, runners and boaters were enjoying a warm evening.
¡Andale! Buena Suerte.
Gracias, Anette!
Your journal entries are most delightful and informative.
Glad to have you following, Jim.
Look forward to reading these each day. Most interesting.
Glad you are enjoying!
The Cantabrian mountains!! I don’t think John has had a chance to look at your blog & photos, but he will love that picture in particular. On this day, a close second for me was the boat racer picture.
Thanks for making the time to document in word and photos how the trip is going. What a wonderful way to feel a part of it all. (I have such special memories of our limited time on the Camino…)
I’m just getting caught up on the first week of posts and then I’ll be enjoying future missives as they come. So fun!
I‘m so glad you can „join“ us as we travel the camino. I have to ask John about the Flysch rocks that point almost straight up and down.
Late to follow, but super cool photos Eric. I’m glad to be seeing/learning some geology from them! Enjoy!! Best, John
Glad that you can join our adventures from time to time. All the best to you and Sarah.