Today Ernesto and I continued our exploration and efforts to get full access and acceptance for doing photography in Tlahuitoltepec. We started out with a late breakfast at little restaurant down the road at the town center. I had scramble eggs with tomato and chile which was very good. The coffee was the weak sugary variety known as “cafe de la hoya”.
After breakfast we decided to get over to the municipal building and find the magic person to give me permission for photography in the town. After going from one office to another and then coming back later, we managed to meet the “Sindico” who reluctantly gave me approval, but still warned me not to try to get individual portraits. For a portrait photographer that’s tough, but that’s where we are.
Ernesto knows a man who weaves wool garments in town and we walked down a steep mountain to get to his workshop.
Eder has been making wool clothing for 11 years. The star piece is something called a gaban, that looks a lot like poncho, just a different name.
We didn’t have model to wear the gaban so I nominated Ernesto, who was aggreeable to do so and took a few shots for Eder’s online catalog.
Ernesto models the gaban
The mid-day gave us an opportunity to visit a music school that might be preparing for the beginning of the town festival tomorrow. We walked 1/2 km up the mountain to CECAM ( Centro de Capacitacion Musical y Desarollo de la Cultura Mixe) , which is actually known as one of the best music schools in Mexico. The students live on campus and are divided into different age ranges. Most students can’t afford an instrument and are provided one. We would return around 4pm
After a nice lunch at another little restaurant, we rested and waited for the music school practic.
At 4, we walked back up the mountain noticing that the sun was getting low and would dip behind the mountain soon. We arrive in time to meet the professor assigned to us and walked over to the practice area. The young people were sitting around with their instruments and soon assembled.
As we watched on we realized that this is not just an average practice, but the dress rehearsal for a multi-piece performance that will occur tomorrow in a “battle of the bands” as 5 bands converge from around Mexico to all arrive at the central square around 4pm. We also realized that this is the best band we have ever heard — the precision, the intonation, the dynamics all tight and honed.
The 2 hour practice drew to an end with the performance of “Jericho”, which must have been a movie sound track and one could visualize the army marching, the shout, the fall of the city and the jubilation and dancing that follwed. Most impressive.
With the practice over, we thanked the directors and headed back.
On the way back down the mountain, I felt we had turned a corner. The educated people understand our motivation to be photographing this even and accept us. After taking a little rest, we headed out at 7 to find some food in the central square. There were a lot of things being put up for tomorrows start of the festival
We found a curiously named taco place, “Taqueria plastico” to get a light meal. It did not taste plasticky, and we were satisfied. It was getting cold outside and weheaded back to the hotel. I set up my iPad on a table in a common area and started reviewing photos and writing this post. A young man , about 18, stopped by the table and said he had overheard Ernesto and my conversation about photography and was really interested in reaching out and inviting us to join his dance group that would be performing tomorrow. He was a former student of the music schoo we had visited, and now was performing with a dance group from Oaxaca city. Ernesto and I looked at each other in amazement. There ARE open and friendly people who want my photo project to succeed and are excited about it. We are not just in a town that rejects us.
Post script: Here is a video of the CECAM band
PPS: I sent photos from the boxing event to the weaver Eder, who sent them to the boxing event organzers. they were so sad that we had been shut down from taking pictures and invited us back. They posted my photos on their Facedbook page!
Wow! I’d love to experience all you are witnessing. Do you have any sound of that fantastic music school ensemble?
Hi, Tom, I sent the sound to you privately and will see if I can add a sound file to the blog, now that I finally have good internet.