Day 12-13: From Santiago to Porto

October 18-19, 2023

We arose from a very restful sleep in our rented apartment, very close the old section of town. When we realized that the apartment actually included two bedrooms and two baths, we invited one of our camino friends, the nurse we’ve run into many times without any plan, Andrea to share the apartment. When we all awoke well rested she invited us out to breakfast coffee at a little cafe down the street. We had whole wheet toasts, and various toppings. The coffee was wonderful as usual. Aftewards we had some time on our hands and Alice asked if she’d like to do a portrait. She was game and now the challenge was no equipment and dull cloudy rainy weather and terrible light. We chose a window from out apartment.

After taking taking photos, we packed all our stuff up and went to the hotel that owned the apartment and stowed our bags. Alice and I went to the Cathedral and maybe Andrea would join us there. Alice knew exactly how soon and where we should sit to get photos of the mass — and importantly— of the giant censor with it’s incense that swings the full width of the church. We felt a tingle when the priest welcomed pilgrims naming their country of origin and location where they started. Sure enough the botoafumeiro ( censor in Galician language) was unfurled.

After the mass finished we found a restaurant with a very tasty fixed price menu for 15 Euro. Galician soup, grilled salmon, salad and dessert.

Then we had some time on hand before our bus would leave for Porto, so we walked the grounds of the Cathedral and around town.

Soon it was time to pick up our bags and head down to the train station. We walked the familiar path down Horreo street through wind and light rain. We needed to pass over the train station to get to the modern bus station, which was very impressive with it’s multiple levels, areas to relax and rest and cafe. Around 4:55 we decided to head down to look for our 5:15 bus. The bus was already there and almost full . It left the station at 5:07. We were glad we didn’t miss it.

Three and a half hours went slowly in the bus, especially as my seat was next to the bathroom. Every once in a while I’d get a heavy dose of chemical and unpleasant fumes. But the driver was good and steady even though the weather was deteriorating. The rain was heavy through our whole trip back to Porto, but we arrived on time I used the app for the european ride share, Bolt, and Guilhermina showed up in 3 minutes with a beautiful new Toyota electric vehicle to take us to our apartment. We were there in no time. The wind battered us as we struggled to read the entry instructions on my phone, but soon we were in.

Our normal plan would be to get some light supper from a local supermarket, and it seemed reasnable to walk a couple blocks. But as we emerged into a powerful wind and rain, we realized that we were half soaked in only 50 feet of going around the corner. I looked to my left and there was a nice restaurant, so we stepped in. It turned out to be one of porto’s 20 best restaurants. We took measures to order light and not run up a big bill. Our hake, soup dessert and 1/2 bottle of wine came to 40 dollars and we had a great meal. Later we learned that this is a named storm, Aline, battering Portugal at this time.

This morning we got up, gathered our dirty laundry and headed out to get some coffee and then find the laundromat. Both turned out to be very easy. There was a humble little neighborhood cafe-bar across the street and then we headed to a small laundromat just around the corner and up the hill.

With those common tasks out of the way, and the weather seeming to moderate a little, we dropped our laundry off and set off to explore the city. We came to a large and fancy tourisy market that was quite beautiful. The Bolhão market is a century old public market in the heart of the city, that has been turned into more of an upscale tourist market, but still has many of the ancient charms of the old market.

For lunch we found a little local spot, a chicken rotisserie place that’s been there forever and seems to be operated by four genrations. The whole meal cost 40 dollars.

After a little siesta, we headed out again. The sun had broken though and we wanted to be able to walk the city some and get some street photography.

After a good long walk, we got back to the apartment where we had some cheese, Iberian ham on some fresh bread along with some wine for a light supper. It was a good day, and we feel at home in our new neighborhood.