Discovering Purépecha culture in Pátzcuaro

January 26, 2023, Pátzcuaro

This morning I got up eager to get the day started. I was to meet friends of my old friend, Sharon, from college, who are retired here, Bernard and Eileen Wasaw. At 9:30 I stood near the central square of Pátzcuaro known as the fountain of Don Vasco and soon they arrived. Bernard and Eileen are erudite, inquisitive, thoughtful and downright delightful. We got some coffee and sat in the morning sun in the square to help warm us from the morning chill. As we sat chatting, their neighbor, a striking silver haired woman walked by and she let me take a portrait of her.

Esperanza of Pátzcuaro.

When we had finished our coffee we headed off to Tzintzuntzan, or the place of the hummingbird. Our first town along the lake was Ihuatzio, then Cucuchucho. Finally we came to the slightly larger town of Tzintzuntzan. I recalled a family of patients I cared for years ago whose last name was Tzintzun. They had to have been from this town. We saw some local archeological sites, an ancient church and had lunch.

Eileen and Bernard
View of Lake Pátzcuaro
Minor pyramid site at Tzintzuntzan

As we started to walk back to the car from the archeological site, we notice some young people listening to someone who appeared to be an instructor. In fact, it was a large group of university students in a physical education teaching program, there to learn about the ancient ball game played by the ancient Purépechas. The Purépechas are less known in the US, but they are important for many reasons. Their language is unlike any of the other ancient mesoamerican cultures, and they were never conquered by the Aztecs. We chatted with them and then they told us that whey would be re-enacting the ancient sport an hour later.

One of the instructors demonstrating the stick and the conch shell, used to call the ball game to a solemn start.

We had an hour to spare so we stopped for a beautiful lunch overlooking Lake Pátzcuaro. Everything was lovely. Then we hurried off eager not to miss the ball court events. I stayed and let Eileen and Bernard get home, and then stayed for the duration of the instruction and demonstration.

The ball game is preceded by solemn dedication, sounding of the conch shell and calling in the four directions.
Calling in the four directions. Sequentially the players and address the forces of the sunrise, the sunset, the cold and the heat.
The game , called Uárukua Chanakua, as it is called in purépecha.
Struggle for the ball.

One of the options demonstrated wast the ball on fire, used at night.

A ball soaked in gasoline will light up the night sky when it is used.

When the games and education were concluded, I needed to ask for a ride home. This fits in the theme of having to be vulnerable while traveling in order to receive the good will of the local people. They were all glad to take me back to Pátzcuaro where they were going to have some dinner. As I walked up towards my hotel, I ran into a traditional dance group practicing. Maybe I will get to see the performance.

Traditional dance group practicing.

It was a very full day, and I topped it off by figuring out how to turn on the heater in my room, as it gets quite cool at night.