October 1
We spent the evening prior in the Watarase Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. These typically include hot baths from natural hot springs and traditional food. Before eating, we bathed. We had a private open pool formed in the rock or cement filled with natural hot spring water. One has to shower briefly prior to getting in the bath. Robes or “yukata” and sandals are provided to walk to the bath. Once we were in bath (together!) we sat back and looked at the surrounding treetops and sky.
After bathing we headed down to the cafeteria, as we had not reserved a formal dinner. We ordered some Japanese curry and had a beer. People we recognized from the hike came in and we nodded to them as they passed by. Sometimes we didn’t speak the same language, but there is a knowing look for people who share the Kumano experience.
I was so tired I laid down at 7 “just for a minute” and woke up at 5;30 am well rested. I wrote yesterday’s blog. While I wrote, Alice took a morning hot bath, and then we dressed and went down for our reserved breakfast at 7:30 am. The table was set with extreme care and precsion with a dozen or more dishes, some very tiny.
With breakfast finished, we packed and walked a suspension bridge across the river and started our 6 km hike over a very small mountain to Hongu.
We walked through typical small town and agricultural land
We walked into the little town of Yunomine perched on a fast moving Oto River.
Part of the reason to choose a very light day was so that we could stop and “smell the coffee” in unexpected ways. Another hard day of 8 hours hiking would require us to stay focused and work as hard as we could to finish the day.
We were back into the primeval cedar forest and the mountain
After 90 minutes strenuous hiking we emerged into the river town of Hondu, a main focus of the Kumano. We walked along the river in order to see the famous gate or tori.
We had some time to kill, so we visited the main temple here again.
We made a mistake of going to the wrong pickup point . Alice and the owner missed each other in translation and we waited for an hour uncertain if he’d be able to find us. Meanwhile he was waiting for us in another location. Alice was able to message him and we finally connected.
Engawa is a very ecologically designed homestay with little to no waste. The owner built the home by hand. It features a composting toilet and outdoor hot tub fed by the hot springs or a burner ( i’,m not sure)
We are looking forward to getting to know this man and his 5 children this evening when he returns from picking up a child from schol.