After our tumultuous arrival in Santiago and spending a nice evening with friends in the blues bar, we took an extra day in Santiago, to be sure to go to the Pilgrim’s mass at noon. This is the famous mass with the giant incense burner that swings the whole width of the Cathedral. We arrived about 2 hours before the mass, knowing that seating would be extremely limited and that tourists would be hovering around with cellphones ready, all trying to get the same poor image of the Mass in poor light. As the time for the Mass approached announcements were repeated that only participants should stay and no cameras or sell phones would be allowed. Finally, as 12:00 arrived, the giant organ began its introit and the cantor sang the opening phrases. The bishop and numerous priests clad in red processed and were seated. The mass followed its usual form, with the inclusion of acknowledgement of groups of pilgrims, where they started and where they were from. ”American who started in Irún” seemed to be us. Though neither of us is Catholic, the connection through the ages to ancient Christianity can be traced and the solemnity of the Mass appreciated.
After the Mass we enjoyed walking around the town, resting and a light lunch. We opted for a quiet evening with a simple shared supper of olives, figs, serrano ham and yoghurt in our hotel room. Dinner here is very late for us ( after 8 pm) and more expensive.
This morning we got up, went to a nice little cafe-bar for breakfast and walked the town before hopping a noon train to Madrid. The train was incredibly smooth and fast, and took 4 hours to Madrid.
It’s a little bit of a witdrawal from the daily ritual of packing the backpack and getting our for 20-28 km. Our feet are happy the. The chronic pain I was experiencing is receding quickly. Tomorrow we have a bike tour to get to know Madrid.